For a long time I wanted to visit the Ettore Germano winery, attracted by the keenest curiosity to try their Riesling, the famous Hérzu, a vine that I consider to be among the most fascinating and elegant so far tasted and definitively one of my favorites.
Yes, because Sergio Germano, son of Ettore, was one of the few pioneers of the Langhe, lands that are in fact associated purely with the superb Barolo wine, which twenty-five years ago bet on planting this German vine in the Langhe hills of Ciglié, thirty kilometers far from the Cerretta hill of Serralunga d’Alba where the company is located.
But first things first.
Our visit begins, with a little surprise, with the tasting. In fact, tasting the series of their wines introduced and accompanied by a perfect and exhaustive illustration of everything upstream, is an excellent incipit.
Ettore Germano is a company that since 1856 has seen a succession of four generations and with them an expansion, an evolution and – as mentioned – a good dose of innovation and bravery that have led the company to be recognized among the big names of Piedmontese Langhe wines. White wines and sparkling wines based on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Nascetta are mainly produced in the “Alta Langa” area of Ciglié; red wines such as Barbera, Nebbiolo and Barolo are produced from the vineyards of Serralunga d’Alba, visible from their terrace.
The tasting (which I will elaborate with more details in due time) begins with Rosanna (dedicated to Ettore’s wife), a classic extra brut rosé method produced from Nebbiolo grapes: for me it was the first time and I was happily surprised by its note of red fruits and, despite its very low sugar content, its almost sweet aftertaste.
And then we get to him, the long-awaited Riesling Hérzu: although Giulia, the attentive and well-prepared guide, suggests that time will improve its bouquet and enhance the hydrocarbon notes (barely perceptible), I am fascinated by its perfect harmony built by aromaticity and minerality: nothing is out of place, it is simply pure balance.
We concluded the series with the inevitable kings of the territory: we tasted Barolo Cerretta and Barolo Prapò in parallel. They are like two cousins, Nebbiolo flows in their vineyards, but their exposure and different soil composition (one more calcareous, the other more sandy) make them different. Barolo Cerretta is full-bodied with high tannins content, there are notes mainly of ripe fruit and hints of leather, whereas Barolo Prapò has a fruity note of cherry, raspberry, with softer tannins. Both from 2016, both to be appreciated in a few years.
Careful attention to organic practices for the 21 hectares of vineyards, the rigorously hand-made harvest and a zeal in all the operations made in the cellar can only bear fruit in their annual 150 thousand bottles.
And I add the aesthetic touch of the new labels designed by Elena, Sergio’s wife, which I find simply authentic and full of passion.
It was a pity that the day was gloomy and the landscape to admire from the terrace was shrouded in mist: after all we were in October, but the autumn colors were a sight to see! Just like the visit we made: gorgeous.
